crucial

10 hours in a loud bouncey horn-blasting bus from Shimla to Dharamsala. I'm actually going to McLeod Ganj aka upper dharmasala. The bus guy (the guy with the whistle who collects fares) takes care to tell me to take the bus up the hill (7 Rs) rather than take the taxis (100Rs). When I get out, they swarm around me. "I'm catching the bus". they look a bit dejected "oh right 7Rs. well you have to wait an hour, wait right here." but they know that I probably already know that its only 5 mins wait.

This is of course the home of the Dalai Lama and the Tibetan Goverment In Exile, and a large population of monks, yogis, ayurvedic doctors, massage therapists and of course lots of white people bringing in the currency. And lots of lepers. This town has like 10 full time lepers. I'm sure they do quite well up here. I gave them money in the morning, but then they forget me and always ask everytime I walk past.

This town also has lots of grown up Lisa Simpsons. They have longer hair now, and they come from cute countries like France and Sweden. Yes, there is also a bit of a nasty new age vibe here, but I think its avoidable once I explore more. the music is awful. synthy tibetan/nepali newage ?
in most of india in any sikh temple, no matter how small, they have an amazing vocalist and a drummer. they crank it up after dusk and let it ring out over the whole valley. really great music. gotta love the sikhs (the guys with the turbans, a mix of hindi and muslim). they sing about beautiful things in a beatufiful way, and they run a lot of good middle class shops. Its always the sikh's selling stereo equipment. In new york, they drive cabs, but then even the tibetans drive cabs in NYC.

but I quite like it here, and will stay for at least a month I think. a good yoga teacher, I'll take classes tommorrow. a vinpassanna retreat at the top of the hill behind me. its very very beatiful up there. the room I have is only 70Rs, simple and small.

Where milk comes from: